Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Attrition



Beyond token protests (such as a torch rally or a hastily called and then recalled bandh) you will not hear much talk about Gorkhaland in the Darjeeling hills. Right now its more about the squabble over primary teacher posts, the demand for money, bad roads, crime etc etc.
In that sense the Indian system has won. It has managed to wear down a demand by attrition.
When the people rallied behind GJMM (as it had done behind the GNLF about twenty years ago) it was difficult not be idealistic. The GJMM managed to uproot the GNLF out the hills with ease, the sixth schedule was scrapped without a fuss. Given the almost providential nature in which things were happening their way, the GJMM diehards did not find it too hard to swallow their leader's promise of a Gorkhaland by a certain date (March 10, 2010 to be precise).
But then such ones hadn't learned from history. The Indian polity has a certain default setting built into the system. To have a demand (however contentious albeit legitimate) met you need to engage with the state as a political entity. That is the rule of the game. Otherwise you would like the Maoists seek to fight to change the rules of that game and get absolutely nowhere.
The GJMM therefore had to morph into a political party. A space was created for it to indulge in its political game. Once it fell for that inevitability it was game over. The GJMM is now a political party with a 100% majority in an administrative dispensation called the GTA. Being a political party , instead of a movement comes with its baggage of issues.
First there is that not so insignificant matter of being served with the trappings of power and prestige. People call you chairman etc. You get to ride in cars with red beacons. You get to do things that the big boys do like plan, allocate, bureaucratize. This is the quagmire in which you will find the remains of many dead demands. In that sense what is happening now isn't too surprising. The GJMM is a political party and playing politics is its existential dharma. Their recent trip to Delhi, the hobnobbing with the Congress after their falling out with the TMC could all be seen in that light. For the immediate future Gorkhaland is not going to be an issue in the hills. Of course like the British monarchy it will be the presiding deity to which all parties will show their due token deference. But there are other things that will occupy the stage. Much has happened since Bimal Gurung called Mamata Banerji, 'mother'. 

Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Remembering Writing





Remembering Writing
T-Shirts are perhaps not the best known means of dispensing wisdom. But NO ONE READS YOUR BLOG screaming out of a young man's chest is right on the money. On the other hand, kalimpong calling does have its readers. Google  stats tell you how many read what on a particular day. Sometimes charitable people leave comments. Some of them even email or talk about it to others.
For me blogging allows an escape from the clerical aspect of maintaining a journal. The miracle of digitization annuls the tedium of filing away papers or curating notebooks. My handwriting now made even more irredeemably undecipherable by lack of practice is limited to just signatures.
Just yesterday however I was taking a mental stock of all that I had written through the years. I don't remember all of them but a few  came to mind.
In class IX I wrote a letter for the HEA (Hill Employees Association). In fact this was the beginning of my letter writing career. This missive was directed to the President of India and condoled the death of Indira Gandhi in four foolscaps of purple prose.
Another one was directed to the Governing Body of Dr. Graham's Homes. Someone from the HEA had got whiff of news that they were planning to close DGH down and shift it to Kolkata. Those mind you were days of the andolan and anything appropriately drastic sounded believable. The letter worked and DGH stayed put. They even got to celebrate the centenary although no one there remembered to mention my contribution towards its rehabilitation.
Besides the aforementioned missives I have written resolutions for various clubs and organisations, letters on behalf of the alumni association of SUMI and SAS, essays for JNU students, letters of intents for American Universities,letters of recommendations (for other people recommending other people), letters written by guardians to principals, letters written by principals to guardians, IGNOU notes, copy for copywriters, Sahitya Academy presentations for Sahitya Academy people, UN Heritage brochure , editorials for other editors, a tourist brochure, etc etc.
Once in college someone's girlfriend had been admitted to a B-School. A part of the admission formality was to write about oneself. The lady in question being really deep had no clue who she was or perhaps she felt a mere essay could not really do justice to her personality. Whatever the case may be, it fell on my lot to write about her. I merely summoned up a Linda Goldman book on horoscopes and using traits both positive and negative of various starsigns concocted a persona for her. The key of course is not to dwell on generalities but to give specific snapshots.
She completed that B-School and presently must be so high up the corporate ladder that looking down could make her really dizzy.

Colorful Comments
I haven't watched TV for a long time now. But I do read news on the net. Himalaya Darpan is digitally delivered early in the morning and The Telegraph can be accessed from the site. Besides these mainstream newspapers some analysis is also available on forums and Darjeeling or Kalimpong specific news sites. Though mostly stale, hackneyed and jingoistic the views are made interesting by the colorful use of the English Language. Commenting on the comment made on the death of Madan Tamang a wise man wrote, “I too am dead against the murder of Madan Tamang”. Another headline yesterday mentioned, “Man feared killed by leopard, dies in hospital”

Outsourcing
Read a report about an intrepid coder in the US who outsourced his job to China for a fifth of his salary and spent his time watching cat videos and browsing reddit and twitter. However he wasn't  the first one to come up with such a creative way to get his job done. Back in the day , young, urban primary school teachers of Kalimpong were outsourcing their jobs to their village counterparts quite regularly. Most of them unfortunately did not spend their day with cats. They got themselves stone drunk and did not live long to read this news and say 'been there done that'.

Tuesday, January 15, 2013

Jorethang Mela 2013

Normally I don't post pictures. But then on the 14th I happened to be in Jorethang when the Maghey Mela was in full swing. I guess many people in Sikkim look forward to it. It was quite colourful, confusing and very ugly at times.

                                                          

                         
                                           
                                                                             
                                           
                                                   
                       
                                         
                                                                    
            
                                                           
                                                             
                                                 
                                                           
                                                                   



                               



                                            

Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Tea and Tourism Festival



When I went to town today (2/1/2013) I found Main Road empty of vans. Didn't realize they had made way for a Tea and Tourism Festival.
Of course I live in 11th Mile and don't get to hear of such things. But then I thought, perhaps folks from Gujarat, Europe knew about it. If they came that was all that mattered.
Unfortunately that was not to be. In fact you could have played a game called “Count a Tourist” and never run out of fingers.
So what was on offer? I can only talk about the Main Road. You wouldn't expect me to follow the Tourism Festival to it's other locations at Mela Ground(where they had beach volleyball) and Jan Mukti Park.
(As far as Jan Mukti Park was concerned, it was being inaugurated again. That was what a friendly local nurseryman who had been requested to make some 'flower arrangements' told me. According to him the Park had been inaugurated last year too. But the powers that be decided to do that honor again. For the flower arrangement, by the way, they had been sanctioned ten thousand rupees. The assorted flowers and plants were obtained from local nurseries.)
Smack where the Main Road begins, in front of Himalayan Stores, someone had put a Zorb Ball. I guess that was the piece de resistance of this fest. Some Kalimpong website will probably show you pictures of this , as I noticed quite a few of our young photographers walking down Main Road with serious photographer faces and even serious photographic equipments.
Then for a long stretch the road was empty. Quite empty even of local folks who should have been curious about the Ball but weren't and for some reason had chosen to give it a miss.
Next to the Zorb Ball was a Puchka Stand. Kalimpong's fascination for this strange delicacy is well known. Besides hygiene the Puchka Wallah defies even the most strictly enforced Bandh. This counter was doing brisk business. (Once I took my daughter for a Puchka treat. The seller wasn't around so we waited. He came after a while. When I asked him where he had been he didn't reply. But quite matter of factly he  poured  some water from a mug and began to wash his hands)
 Next to it were some more stands, most of them quite empty. The good people of Sri Hang Tea or something like that were putting up banners advertising their beverage. I guess this took care of the 'Tea' part of the Tea and Tourism Festival.
Another stand had a group of young girls in some ethnic dress with fully made up faces (there was nothing ethnic about the makeup though) waiting for their turn to make the dance presentation. They were minded by bored matrons with stern faces. These older ladies too had turned up in their ethnic finery minus thankfully the makeup.
The dancers were probably waiting for the cue from the announcers whose busy voices that trumpeted out through the strategically located horn mikes, informed in micro-detail about all the goings on of the Fest. My good friend Suraj Mani , for a change was talking in Nepali. I guess it has become quite fashionable to be bilingual. He and his fellow travelers on the Mike repeatedly kept on saying Bisheshgari and Mukhya Atithi.
Then in front of old Bata (near New Restaurant- where they put Dalda in their beef momos)a stage had been erected. The dances etc were supposed to happen there. There was a crowd milling around and taller tourists (if they were around) could have craned their necks to catch a view of the display.
When I passed that area it was probably the turn of Dhan Nacch. The announcer was getting reasonably sentimental about Dhan Nach. Kadeer my good agricultural friend isn't though. He feels agriculture in the Hills can be done for sentimental reasons but isn't cost effective anymore. The 100 day employment program has made matters worse for people who need to hire out labour. This isn't an entirely bad thing  though. The labourers for example are spoilt for choice. They don't however,  make quite as much as the porters from Nepal. On a good day such ones do more than a thousand bucks. They can be contacted on their mobile phones and work like devils.
The same Kadeer wasn't particularly enthused about the Tourism Festival. He was telling me – A few weeks back they did some GTA animal fair in Pudong. Most of the animals were sourced from Pudong area. There were just three goats and they gave them first, second, third. Speaking of animals I mustn't forget to mention the bullock cart. Yes there was a bullock cart parked in front of Dambar Chowk. The bullocks sat there chewing cud with bovine nonchalance. The cart appeared quite freshly made. Perhaps someone was commissioned to make one for the Festival. Wonder what the outlay on that was.
The Tea and Tourism festival wasn't just confined to the earth (that is Main Road, Jan Mukti Park and Mela Ground). There was one going on in the sky too. For Rs3000/- (you have to get this amount verified) you could get yourself hitched up on a helicopter and given an aerial surveillance of Kalimpong. If you happened to be up there what would you have seen? Of course the aforementioned places focused on the festival. But just a few block away, at say DS Gurung road you would have seen an abnormal concentration of vans. Yes all the traffic that were denied access to Main Road had been diverted to these roads and there was a god almighty jam happening. It would be a miracle if a tourist getting down at the Motor Stand would have reached the Main Road in time to witness the Mangar Dance.
Although the Tea and Tourism Festival may not have given Kalimpong town a spring cleaning (you'd need more than the Fire Brigade for that) the various alleyways that join the Main Road have been dusted with generous amounts of bleaching powder.
These gallis on normal days give an almighty stink. They are dark and dank. The only saving grace is that so far no one has been mugged in one of them.
I am no expert on tourism.
But I have a feeling that you need more than bleaching powder to make Kalimpong a happening place for tourists.


Saturday, December 1, 2012

Redesigning Kalimpong





There is a certain breathlessness about the rate at which big ticket projects have been announced in the past few weeks.
Engineering Colleges, Hydel Projects (not one but two) , Rope-ways, Film Cities, Golf Coures, Biometric sensors, Airfields, Helicopters, Switzerland, 600 crores, a thousand crores - nothing much has been left to the imagination. Except say a nuclear power station. Although in the past there have been talk of Uranium too.
Unfortunately none of the aforementioned announcements promise to do anything about the Kalimpong traffic congestions which as far as our town goes is a classic problem of plenty.
Earlier it was just the Vans. These days it is Nanos and Vans and shiny new Scorpios and shiny new Safaris and Eons and A-Stars and Dusters (the list isn't by any stretch of imagination exhaustive). The Siliguri Motor Vehicle Registration Office meanwhile has run out of alphabets.
To top it all Obed from SBI sent a message saying anyone who needed Vehicle loans should contact him.
Since there seems to be no letup on the rate at which vehicles are being driven into Kalimpong here are some proposals to ease the traffic situation.
Plan A (Space)
This one involves building walkways above the ground. For exampe, you may have noticed that the stretch of RC Mintri Road that begins from Dr. OP Sharma's clinic is lined with buildings on both sides. It wont be a difficult thing to get some Grill guy to fabricate an aerial footpath. Most of these building have a shop on the ground floor. Now they could have a shop on the first floor too. Pedestrians could window-shop literally. That way the road below could be left exclusively for the Vans, the Nanos and the shiny new Scorpios and Safaris. Something similar could also be planned for Main Road.A whole network of skywalks and ramps and stiles and paseos and footbridges would create a vibrant ecosystem. It could also be an added attraction for tourists not to mention the fact that we would be one up on Switzerland as far as urban design was concerned.
Plan B (Time)
Once when entering into an uncharacteristically eerie and silent Kalimpong town at about 11 in the night, I had this brainwave. Why not engineer this concept of a 24-hour open Kalimpong town? That way people from Kafer and Algarah and Suruk could do their thing during the day while those from Topkhana and Chibbo would do their thing in the night. We would perhaps begin with the Haat days and see how it goes from there. We would then have a Diurnal Kalimpong and a Nocturnal Kalimpong. That would not only save the daylight but also our sanity.
Veteran Football matches and Dr. Ali of course would be available only during the day.




Wednesday, November 28, 2012

Winter and all that Jazz




Winter
Winter is here. Mr. Das who notices such things recently declared that his tea-water for two took a minute more to boil. In the morning, when I shuffle to the toilet on my bare feet the terrazzo bites. And of course the calender says it will be December soon.
Many friends will move down to Siliguri. Hope they wont miscalculate like it happened a few years ago. While our winter had been one long session of sunshine, something snapped in Siliguri and the chill was unbearable. Our people however are known to exaggerate the cold of plains winter. They say, perhaps not without some meteorological logic, Delhi को चिसो त कहाँ यस्तो हुन्छ  , त्यसले त चिल छ नि हो। 
Books
Haven't been reading much. Except a book on jazz, But Beautiful. The other one I read earlier was the encyclopedic History of Jazz by Ted Gio. But Beautiful is different. It tries to recreate in a rambling, at times stream of conscious kind of narrative the imagined biography of jazz greats like Monk, Mingus, Ben Webster. For example everyone knows how Monk took the hit for Bud Powell when cops discovered the latter's heroin. The story is that Monk was arrested instead of Powell and had his cabaret card confiscated so that he could not perform his jazz publicly. This lead to other consequences that Monk fans know about. This episode is re-imagined in this fashion.
Note the syncopated prose, the brilliant angularity of the images..almost like chops from Monk's piano.
Cops approach the cats in the car. Monk snatches Powell's heroin and throws it out.
"Monk snatched it from him and sent it butterflying out of the window, landing in a puddle and floating there like a little origami yatch"
The cops approach...
"Monk and Bud sat and watched the red and blue lights from the prowl car helicoptering around them, rain sweating down the white glare of the windshield, the metronome flop of the wipers. Bud rigid, holding himself barbed-wire tight."
Monk is interrogated.
"- What's your name?"
-Monk
-You got ID?
Monk's hand moved towards his pocket-"

The cop sees the ID
"Thelonious Sphere Monk. That you?
-Yeah. The word came clear of his mouth like a tooth.
-Big name.
Rain falling into pools of blood neon"

Cops seize Monk's card, 'toss it like a cigarette into a puddle'.
The episode ends..
"Monk looked down at the rain pattering his photo, a raft in a crimson lake."
Isn't that But Beautiful?
Willim Claxton the renowned jazz photographer once in an interview said, "I was up all night developing when the face appeared in the developing tray. A tough demeanour and a good physique but an angelic face with pale white skin and, the craziest thing, one tooth missing -- he'd been in a fight. I thought, my God, that's Chet Baker." There is an account of the fight (or rather the beating) which lead to that Chet Bakers's famously photogenic dental deficit.
Speaking of books here is another one I read. This is courtesy Mr Sakya whom I have been pestering now for years. The book is called Ullar and was quite a sensation when it first came out. Ullar is a terai term for unbalance. It is usually applied to the instability of a tonga when a skewed distribution of load causes it to totter. In the story, PremLalwa's tonga suffers Ullar when it is hired by a politician's acolytes to ferry a victory procession through town. The horse dies and PremLalwa comes to the end of his tethers begging the victorious politician to buy him a horse. Of course I make it sound very simple. But Ullar is perhaps one of the best books I have read in any language. Period. The characters are all stereotypes, the situation cliches but there is something about the manner in which the sentences are strung and the episodes organized that makes it very compelling reading. PremLalwa is in love with a prostitute Draupadi who plies here trade with a workman like matter of factness. The reportage too is the same. For example after a policeman has unpaid sex with her, she washes her 'secret organs' with dettol. It is only before PremLalwa that she feels some kind of shame undressing. The politician after all does not buy him the horse. PremLalwa has to sell his land to do so. And in that commerce lies a burden of a cruel cycle. The horse that died too had been bought by selling land. And after each such transaction PremLalwa gets displaced, farther and farther away towards the margins, the Ullar aggravates. In the end PremLalwa decides to marry Draupadi. He realizes that decision may not go too well with those around him. But with cynical pragmatism he plans a party. Booze and meat would after all make them forget. With his plans in place he goes to Draupadi. And then one is treated to perhaps the most poignant ending of a Nepali (or any for that matter) novel. As he approaches Draupadi's door....
र त्यसपछि अलिकति माया , अलिकति अधिकार र अलिकति आग्रहसहित प्रेमललवा जोडले करायो - दृअपदी
Currently I am reading another novel by the same author. This one is called Loo after the hot dry wind that you may have perhaps read about in Monsoon Asia. Nayan Raj Pandey has a keen sense of humour. People in a tea shop are discussing the heat. In the sky a ferocious sun is blazing down on the villagers. One of them says, आकाशमा सुर्य भगवानको एकलौटी दादागिरी चलिरहेछ। The protagonist , a young boy, muses मलाई त तात्तातो तेलमा झ्वाई पारेको बडेमानको आलुचोप जस्तो लाग्यो सुर्य.
Kite
When we were young we flew kites. I think I exaggerate. Mine may not have ever left the ground. But still I remember certain things about kites. For example to the serious kite flier a kite with a tail was an ultimate diss. Also the hill way of flying the kite was different than those that they showed in the movies. Hill kitefliers negotiated their kites straight from the लट्टाई. The plainsman had their लट्टाई on the ground and paid more attention to the strings. Another thing I remember is the string. Gun was supposed to be deadly for kite-fights. Sengupta was a sissy string. Then there was that whole matter of the मंज़ा. Crushed tubelight was supposed to be a killer. Of course the purist capped his मंज़ा ritual by rubbing certain things on the string. घिउ कुमारी was understandable but you may not believe the कुकुर को गु.
Then when we flew our Dasain kites on the eve of our leaving for the teagardens , we used to unspool the entire length of the thread. And when the kite was a mere speck in the darkening sky the thread was snapped. The kite was lost, swallowed up by the evening.
One final rumination. On a still day with no hint of a breeze to give the kite a lift, one whistled. It was generally believed that whistling roused the wind from its slumber. And invariably it did. Was it some psychology at work?These days I tend to believe otherwise. Could the theory of chaos and non-linear effects have some explanation? After all the minute variations in pressure that our whistling introduced in the complex equations of weather could have lead on to much else besides a a helpful wind. Could we have sown the wind and someone else reaped the whirlwind?

Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Kalimpong Guest House




The Porch
 Kalimpong Guest House




View from Porch

Verandah

Room One
Room Two


Room 2


Bathroom







Room 1







(More Pictures after the writeup)

 Note: This Guest House is not on the road. You cannot drive in. It is about a couple of minutes walk from the road. Just call 07602697173, 09563773297 and someone should be there to guide you.

I am offering a cottage for vacationers. It is located at 11th Mile, Kalimpong just below Dr. Graham's Homes.
 The Guest House has two clean, reasonably well furnished rooms with attached bathrooms and a porch with a seating area.There is a large lawn in front of the cottage.
Besides all the amenities that a modern household can offer, interested folks can listen to a wide variety of music on my audiophile grade music system and read books from my library.
Kalimpong is a pleasant town with an unhurried pace of life. The climate is mild and temperate. It is also close to Darjeeling (which is more famous but crowded) and Sikkim. Vacationers wanting to do these places can make Kalimpong their base as they plan their travels.
The tariff is very reasonable:
Rs1500/- per person. This takes care of lodging and food (bed tea/coffee, breakfast, lunch and dinner).
At full occupancy the guest house can accommodate just four guests. Guests cannot cook their own food. Laundry and basic medical care as well as internet is available. The recalcitrant power situation can hopefully be managed with an inverter.
Food served will be good and nourishing. Some vegetables (peas, beans, cabbage, broccoli, celery, muli etc)  will be sourced from our own garden. Others obtained from the local market tend to be organic most of the times. In winter a few orange trees we have give sweet juicy oranges.
Kalimpong provides for a fair choice of meat- beef, pork, poultry, mutton and some river fishes.
For a reasonable additional cost (well below the prevalent market rates) sight seeing and travelling could be arranged on my white Ecco van.
If you are planning a visit or need to make any enquiries about the Guest House or anything else  about Kalimpong and adjoining areas you could write at prabinkpg@gmail.com.

Thanks and Regards

Here are some details about the audio setup.
System 1 (Porch)
Source- Marantz CD 6002
Amplification- Nad 325 BEE
Speakers- Mordaunt Short Avant 902i (Book Shelves)
Interconnects- Cambridge Audio Atlantic
Speaker Cables-Generic Copper

System 2 (Living Room)
Digital Source- Musica NOS DAC (with tube buffer)
Analog Source- Thorens TD 150 with Jelco Tonearm
Phono- Musica Pho30 with tube buffer
Amplification- Redwine Audio Signature 30.2
Speakers- DIY Rear Loaded Horn Speakers with Fostex 166E drivers       
Interconnects- TCI Viper
Speaker Cables -Designer Audio

Media
CDs and Flacs   


More photos below........................................................................ 

                  http://www.facebook.com/kalimpong.guesthouse
Garden and Wall
Bird Nest
Sky Above The House
Close Up
Blue Against Blue

Azaleas

The Garden



The Entrance
Another View of Entrance






The House

The Guest House

Listening Room View 1

Listening Room View 2

Ethan Palden Moktan

The Porch Again

The White Ecco
                     
The Entrance

Feast For Bees

Bees

Ethan

Ethan and Palmu

Sand
Marigolds

More Marigolds

Morning Gold

Berries of a Tree that was uprooted in a storm


Oranges

Orange Again

Ficus

 Ficus and House
Ethan Again
Flower Girl 1
Flower Girl 2
Flower Boy

Organic Farmer

Ethan and Rachel

Walk (You could walk there too)
 The View From The Walk
 A Close Up Of The Mountain From the Walk
Another Aspect of the Walk
 Mountains From The Walk
 Relli 1
 Relli 2
 Boating
 Downstreaming
Rachel & Relli